Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Cowboy Culture -- Mormon Canyon Trail

Sunup about 1999 in Browns Canyon, Chatsworth, CA
It's been a little over fifteen years since the first time Sunup and I went up the Mormon Canyon trail.  Back then I boarded Sunup on a ranch situated at the junction of Browns Canyon and Mormon Canyon.  Both canyons have year-around creeks meandering through them.  The canyons are riparian habitats along the banks of the creeks and are home to a wide range of plants, insects, amphibians, and birds.


Mormon Canyon is a shaded woodland populated with sycamore, live oak, black walnut and willows.  My usual ride started on Mormon Creek, just above its confluence with Browns Wash.  the trail wound alongside of, and crossed, Mormon Creek several times in the bottom of the canyon as it headed north; then as it began its ascent to higher elevations, the trail paralleled the east side of the creek until it reached a plateau at the top of a ridge, some two and a half miles distant.


As the trail climbs through the canyon visitors are treated to glimpses of open pastures, two waterfalls (one nearly 30 feet tall), and a huge array of sandstone rock outcroppings.  The plateau at the top of Mormon Canyon is the home of a  100-year-old olive grove with a year round spring that attracts lots of wildlife, and was home to the free ranging-cattle that once had roamed the area. 


After reaching the olive grove, I generally turned to the south went across a razorback ridge, and then continued to any one of three ridges that traversed chaparral and grassland habitat back to the starting point.

Each round-trip ride of five or six miles was a new adventure because of the extraordinary variety of wildlife in the area.  There are a thousand little stories I could tell you about what I witnessed in the several years I rode those trails.  Things like…

Hearing a commotion overhead, then looking up (at treetop level) to see a red tail hawk with a snake dangling from his beak while a crow is attacking him from behind.

Galloping up the trail and almost broadsiding an unsuspecting coyote as it suddenly emerged from the chaparral on the edge of the trail.

Cresting the apex of a ridgeline and startling a gray fox in the midst of his dining on a field mouse.

Riding up a ridge at 5:30 a.m. and watching a great horned owl hunting from the branch of a dead tree, then two hours later coming down the same ridge and watching the day shift, and another red tail hawk hunting from the same branch of the same dead tree.

Rounding a bend in the trail and running head-on into a bobcat that bolts back down the trail and disappears.  Then (a few minutes later), having your horse stop dead in his tracks, swing his head around, and look squarely at the bobcat hiding in plain sight against a downed tree.

Riding down the trail, then picking up a little motion in the shadow on a pile of leaves--a very lazy rattlesnake.  There's no way around him except by getting off your horse and gently roll rocks over the top of the snake until he meanders off the trail, giving you a safe route home.

Watching a roadrunner scurry along a dusty ridge-top trail a 100 yards ahead that suddenly darts into the chaparral, only to emerge ten yards distant as a coyote.  No wonder our native American brothers believed in shapeshifters. 

Looking down from a ridge top at the canyon trail and noticing three deer in a secluded little meadow I had just rode past, but never noticed.

Heading up the canyon just before dusk on a warm summer evening and stopping to rest your horse, and you happen to gaze at an open pasture through the trees and spot a fence post you never noticed before, and something about that post fixes your attention.  Then suddenly the post stands up and turns, exposing its profile with a long dark brown tail that flicks, then you realize you are way too close to a mountain lion.

On another summer night going up the trail in the dark with a group of friends and suddenly a female voice shrieks, "Stop, turn around, go back… it's a SKUNK!"

Our Chatsworth canyons and ridges are plumb full of wildlife.  You name it--if it lives in Southern California we've got it.  Even a rare black bear or two--I've seen the tracks, but not the critter, I've seen a golden eagle three times

I sure do miss riding up that trail listening to the "chiquita-chiquita" call of valley quail, the squawk of stellers jays, and the bubbling sound of the creek.  Nine out of ten times I'd make the ride and never see another human being.  


There used to be a "hunt club" located in Browns Canyon.  They moved out a couple of years back.  Most of their borders where huntsmen (and women) that rode behind a pack of hounds much as they did in jolly old England.  I really miss seeing those folks.  I remember watching them from the top of a ridge one morning.  About fifteen of them were galloping--hell bent for leather--down a mountainside behind the hounds.  Then about a half mile ahead I spotted six coyotes crossing the creek, and headed toward the ridge I was sitting on.  The coyotes really startled old Sunup as they passed us--practically under foot--to evade the hunters.  We continued along the ridge on our ride and a few minutes later yielded the trail to the hunters who were clearly losing ground.  I pointed to my back-trail, and said, "They went thataway."

Now a developer wants to bulldoze the area and build 188 homes, they'll probably let him cause the politicians want the tax money, and--I'll guaran-damn-tee you--nobody on the planning commission ever saw a bobcat or a great horned owl at 5:30 in the morning, or any other time for that matter.  I'm almost seventy and Sunup is twenty-seven.  We've had our day, but I feel sorry for my grandsons who'll never have a choice about riding or hiking in our local canyons.

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Meanwhile back at the ranch -- Overhang Rock


Meanwhile back at the ranch is a continuing series about "rock stars" (landscape features) on the old Iverson Movie Location Ranch in Chatsworth, California.  For more information see: http://a-drifting-cowboy.blogspot.com/2011/10/iverson-movie-location-ranch-chatsworth.html

Overhang Rock wasn't one of the most significant features on the Iverson Movie Ranch, and it doesn't show up all that often.  It was, however, a pretty nifty rock that was used to hide behind as James Cagney is doing above in this still from The Oklahoma Kid (1939).  Overhang Rock and all its surrounding companions were bulldozed away when the Cal-West Townhomes were built in the 1980s


In the screenshot above, Charles Starrett--the Durango Kid--is about to hide from his pursuers in a scene from The Desert Horseman (1946)


This screen capture (above) from Land Beyond the Law (1937), shows Overhang Rock (lower left side) and its relationship to Crown Rock and "The Wall' running across the top of the photo.  Potato Rock is just visible in the top left corner.


In another screenshot (above) from Cheyenne Wildcat (1944), Bill Elliott as Red Ryder and his side kick Little Beaver are galloping on an east-west trail that passes Overhang Rock (right of Elliott, the lead horseman).


Finally, in the shot above from The Tiger Woman (1944), the bad guys are laying in wait behind Overhang Rock.

Cowboy Heroes -- Jo Mora

Mora's first cowboy carte I sold for $1000.00 a few years back.

Joseph Jacinto "Jo" Mora (1876–1947) was an Uruguay-born American cartoonist, illustrator and cowboy, who lived with the Hopi and wrote extensively about his experiences in California. Because he was an artist-historian, sculptor, painter, photographer, illustrator, muralist and author he has been called the "Renaissance Man of the West".

I believe he is best known for his posters and maps, but he also penned two of my favorite books about cowboys and vaqueros.


If you want to learn about early cowboys and their trappings there is no better source than Mora's book "Trail Dust and Saddle Leather".  Another book that delves into the life and times of the early California vaquero is "Californios."  I think these two books have been reprinted in recent years, and I recommend them to anyone interested in the history of the West.



Mora also produced a huge variety of maps--he called Cartes.  I own and enjoy a reproduction of his Yellowstone map (above) that was published in the 1990s.


Another smaller reproduction map (still available from the Yosemite Conservancy) is his Yosemite map above.  All of his maps were originally created in the 1930s and 1940s, and the originals sell for premium prices today.

Trust your neighbor, but keep your gun well oiled



My favorite Charlie Russell saying about guns is "Trust your neighbor, but keep your gun well oiled" from Trails Plowed Under (1929).

I strongly support the Second Amendment to the United States Constitution (the United States Bill of Rights) that protects the right of the people to keep and bear arms, as it was adopted on December 15, 1791.

In 2008 and 2010, the Supreme Court issued two Second Amendment decisions that further support the right to bear arms: In the District of Columbia v. Heller (2008), the Court ruled that the Second Amendment protects an individual's right to possess a firearm, unconnected to service in a militia and to use that arm for traditionally lawful purposes, such as self-defense within the home.  In McDonald v. Chicago (2010), the Court ruled that the Second Amendment limits state and local governments to the same extent that it limits the federal government.

Nobody has a better understanding of the meaning of the Second Amendment than our Founding Fathers who conceived it.  Here's what some of them had to say about the right of the people to keep and bear arms:

"A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government." -- George Washington

"The strongest reason for people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government." -- Thomas Jefferson

"Arms in the hands of citizens may be used at individual discretion in private self defense." -- John Adams

"Americans have the right and advantage of being armed, unlike the people of other countries, whose leaders are afraid to trust them with arms." -- James Madison


So, if packing iron was good for our founding fathers and grandma it's good for me (the photo above was taken in Montana 1949).

Barn Dances -- I've been to a few

The flyer above was created by Jerry England

The first barn dance I ever attended was in 1958 in a little burg known as Raymond, California.  The dance was put on by a local church as a fundraiser.  The music was strictly rock 'n roll.   When I was stationed at Fort Bragg, North Carolina about 1963, I attended another in Southern Pines, South Carolina.


The Western Design Conference put on an excellent dance in a barn at Trail Town in Cody, Wyoming in 1997.  The music was some swell "Western Swing" played by Liz Masterson, Sean Blackburn and their band.  I attended another dance in a barn on a cattle ranch in Los Alamos, California about 1995.  The barn was so dusty that most folks just listened to some pretty nice cowboy music without kicking' up any extra dust.

I don't know if they do it anymore, but the Santa Clarity Cowboy Poetry Festival had a really terrific barn dance on Melody Ranch when it first started out.  My friend Don Edwards had a fine "Texas Swing" band that played it the first couple of years.


Back in 2001 when the Chatsworth Equine Cultural Heritage Organization, a nonprofit I founded, was fighting real estate developers we put on a couple of barn dances as a fundraisers.


Even a cold December night is okay (for a barn dance) when you've got a Tri-Tip dinner complete with all the fixin's, a beer or two, and lots of good friends to spend an evening with.



Sunday, December 11, 2011

Cowgirls have heroes too -- Susan Butcher Iditarod Champion


Twenty five years ago Joyce, my cowgirl wife, introduced me to the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race (see Iditarod history at bottom of post).  We followed it for many years on television.  Joyce found a real hero in a young woman named Susan Butcher.  We watched Susan and her dogs win the grueling 1,112 to 1,131-mile Iditarod race in 1986, 1987, 1988, and again in 1990.


When we visited Alaska a few years back Joyce made friends with every sled dog she encountered.


One of the highlights of our Alaska trip, for Joyce, was actually meeting Susan Butcher (above) and her dogs at their home near Fairbanks.


Joyce fell in love with all the dogs in Susan's compound, but especially the lead dog on the right above.

 When we got to Nome, Joyce had her picture taken with a sled dog team.
Afterword

Sadly, Butcher died--all too young--on August 5, 2006 after fighting cancer for many years.  

On March 1, 2008, Susan Butcher was honored by the State of Alaska when, just prior to the start of the 2008 Iditarod, Governor Sarah Palin signed a bill establishing the first Saturday of every March as Susan Butcher Day. The day coincides with the traditional start of the Iditarod each year. Observing the special day, the bill noted, provides opportunity for people to “remember the life of Susan Butcher, an inspiration to Alaskans and to millions around the world.”

History of the Iditarod

The Iditarod has its roots in history.  In 1925, dog sleds were used to transport medicine to Nome, which was suffering a Diptheria outbreak.  Mushers led dogs up the Iditarod Trail, as Nome is icebound in winter and inaccessible by sea.  The Iditarod run was known as "the great race of mercy".  Mushers relayed the serum northward, with Gunnar Kaasen as the musher who finally delivered the serum.  His lead dog, Balto, became a folk hero, and his remains were preserved at the Cleveland Museum of Natural History.

The Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race is an annual sled dog team race across Alaska. Mushers and a team of 12-16 dogs (of which at least 6 must be on the towline at the finish line) cover over 1,049 miles in 9–15 days from Anchorage to Nome.

The race begins on the first Saturday in March.  The modern Iditarod began in 1973 as an event to test the best sled dog mushers and teams but evolved into today's highly competitive race.  The current fastest winning time record was set in 2011 by John Baker with a time of 8 days, 19 hours, 46 minutes, and 39 seconds.

Teams frequently race through blizzards causing whiteout conditions, sub-zero temperatures and gale-force winds which can cause the wind chill to reach −100 °F (−73 °C). A ceremonial start occurs in the city of Anchorage and is followed by the official restart in Willow, a city in the south central region of the state.  The restart was originally in Wasilla, but because of too little snow, the restart was permanently moved to Willow in 2008.

The trail runs from Willow up the Rainy Pass of the Alaska Range into the sparsely populated interior, and then along the shore of the Bering Sea, finally reaching Nome in western Alaska.  The trail is through a harsh landscape of tundra and spruce forests, over hills and mountain passes, and across rivers.  While the start in Anchorage is in the middle of a large urban center, most of the route passes through widely separated towns and villages, and small Athabaskan and Inupiat settlements.  The Iditarod is regarded as a symbolic link to the early history of the state and is connected to many traditions commemorating the legacy of dog mushing.

The race is the most popular sporting event in Alaska, and the top mushers and their teams of dogs are local celebrities; this popularity is credited with the resurgence of recreational mushing in the state since the 1970s.  While the yearly field of more than fifty mushers and about a thousand dogs is still largely Alaskan, competitors from fourteen countries have completed the event including the Swiss Martin Buser, who became the first international winner in 1992.

The Iditarod received more attention outside of the state after the 1985 victory of Libby Riddles, a long shot who became the first woman to win the race. Susan Butcher became the second woman to win the race and went on to dominate for half a decade. Print and television journalists and crowds of spectators attend the ceremonial start at the intersection of Fourth Avenue and D Street in Anchorage and in smaller numbers at the checkpoints along the trail.

Iditarod source:  wikipedia.org

Saturday, December 10, 2011

Meanwhile back at the ranch -- Zorro's Cave

Meanwhile back at the ranch is a continuing series about "rock stars" (landscape features) on the old Iverson Movie Location Ranch in Chatsworth, California.  For more information see: http://a-drifting-cowboy.blogspot.com/2011/10/iverson-movie-location-ranch-chatsworth.html


The rock formation called Zorro's Cave got its name from the 1957 Disney TV series "Zorro," starring Guy Williams, Gene Sheldon and Henry Calvin.  Zorro's Cave was used as the entrance to Zorro's secret hideout. 


The cave is located on private property in the Cal-West Townhomes (at the end of Sierra Pass Place--a private driveway).  A few months after I took this photo in 2009, the owner of the property installed iron bars to keep trespassers from accessing his property.  I surely don't blame him because intruders were lighting fires and leaving trash everywhere.


The cave is actually an "L" shaped archway with a rear entrance as seen above.  It wasn't one of the most filmed features on the Iverson Movie Location Ranch, but it certainly is interesting.


Above is a promotional still for California (1963), starring Jock Mahoney, Faith Domergue and Michael Pate.

Other movies and serials it shows up in include:

Batman (1943) starring Lewis Wilson, Douglas Croft, and J. Carrol Naish
King Of The Rocket Men (1949) starring Tristram Coffin, Mae Clarke, and Don Haggerty
Perils of Nyoka, The (1942) starring Kay Aldridge, Clayton Moore, and Lorna Gray 
Under Arizona Skies (1946) starring Johnny Mack Brown and Raymond Hatton 


A similar cave as seen in Belle Starr (1941) starring Randolph Scott, Gene Tierney, and Dana Andrews, is not Zorro's Cave, but a second smaller archway located further west in the Iverson Gorge.

Thanks to the fan who pointed this one out to me.